A Guide to Hierve el Agua: Oaxaca’s Stunning Petrified Waterfalls

Just 70 kilometers east of Oaxaca City lie the timeless petrified waterfalls of Hierve el Agua. Close to the archeological site of Mitla and resting over the Sierra Mixe of Oaxaca, this natural landmark offers astonishing mountain views, static cascades, and turquoise-emerald pools. Water flows constantly and silently, leaving its trace in a subtle yet everlasting way as if frozen by time. 

Hierve el Agua translates as “boiling water.” But despite what the name suggests, these are not hot-water springs. The water is slightly warm as it comes out of the earth but becomes cold as it concentrates between the rocky pleats at the top of the waterfalls. Nonetheless, the name is a poetic description of this phenomenon: water gushes and bubbles from small cracks, seeming to boil, even if it isn’t. 

The cold water leaves behind a mineral trace and slides into a free fall of over 50 meters. These petrified waterfalls have formed thanks to the concentration of minerals subtly accumulated over the years. From a distance, it seems they’ve entirely “frozen” with time, inert, immovable. But closer, the warm water coming out from the small craters that fill the waterholes reveals how alive it is. When a cavity is obstructed, the water pressure finds other escape fissures. It’s a cyclical and dynamic process.

A place where time seems to pass slowly but not inertly, as the water flows, leaving its trace in its wake, and the sum of years and years has made these petrified waterfalls a static movement.

This beautiful natural site invites you to wander through its lively ambiance. Water and mineral concentrations have created an amber and ocher coating. The color of the water pools goes from fluorescent vivid greens to deep blues like those in the open ocean; the unique pleats on the rock create fascinating rusty-red patterns. The textures and colors on the site are a delight to the senses. No wonder this site was sacred for the Zapotec people who have inhabited the area since ancient times.

Over the top of the most noticeable cliff, there’s an esplanade with several pools. Yet, contrary to what logic may suggest, these stone formations are not entirely natural. Several man-made pools blend naturally with the scenery. By now, they’ve been covered by a golden coating of minerals that end up embellishing them in such a way that makes it hard to distinguish them from the natural. 

Wandering through the site, we enjoyed the view and the stillness. Early morning, though, it was still too cold to dive into its blue-jaded waters. So instead, we went down a path into the wilderness. A couple of trails surround the area to help appreciate the cascades from different angles. After a few minutes of walking downwards, their monumental size and dramatic fall appeared even more impressive and almost surreal when seen from below. 

By the time we started our way up, the warmth of the day was rising, and I could already feel my skin lightly toasting as the sun’s rays began to fill the atmosphere. As we hiked back, the idea of submerging in the cold pool didn’t seem crazy anymore. But our stomachs were already roaring with hunger. So we headed out towards the entrance where local food stands awaited us. We enjoyed quesadillas, tacos, and Oaxaca’s popular crunchy tlayudas covered with quesillo and a slightly spicy touch of homemade salsa.  

The lonely tree standing in front of one of the pools is one of the most iconic images of Hierve el Agua, a postcard that reminds us of the scale of these sacred mountains. 

Your Guide to Visiting Hierve el Agua

A version of this article appears in print, in Issue 2 of Álula Magazine with the headline: “Of Gushing Springs and Frozen Beauty, Hierve el Agua’s Petrified Waterfalls”.